PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA -- I am not a beginner in savage vehicles. I drive 2 cars myself that I have bought, had rebuilt and have driven for over 4 years and familiar with salvage prices. I live in an area where 50% of the vehicles on the road have been rebuilt locally. When wanting another bike, I have rode bikes for over 30 years, I decided to go the salvage route. After research I thought the Ridesafely.com site seemed to look the best for me. There are numerous other sites that shadow their terms exactly, word for word, this seems strange itself.
Over a 2 week period I bid on several (9 or 10...I lost count) bikes. I was targeting the Harley FXD series and similar Harley models. I had a deposit made by the my second bike I bid on. I made my deposit via Paypal within minutes of having the high bid on the Ride Safety website (step one). I will describe the procedures as a 3 step process. Step One is bidding on the Ride Safety web site, the auction on their website ends around 8, 9 or 10 PM depending on the auction location. If you are the high bidder there, you send the 400.00 deposit to them by 10:00 AM the next day, then you go to step two.
Step two ends at around 12:00 to 1:00 the same day of the Deposit day. This is where you have the chance to increase your bid against other websites, which always happens if you want to stay in the ball game according to the calls from Ride Safely. The Ride Safely bidding on that item is over by then, supposedly you are bidding against other bidders on other web sites and the live auction. The Ride Safely people call you on the phone as soon as you are out bid by other websites etc. If you are watching your notifications on their website, it is within seconds you get the call from their people that you are out bid as well as being notified on the website.
It is normally within the last hour of Step Two that you will have the chance to increase your bid from their phone call. The third step is when the second step ends and if you are the high bidder at the end of the second step, you wait until 9:00PM of the same night to see if you have won all the bidding. In all cases I never did Win the bidding in the 3rd step.
After the third step is over, you are sent an e-mail and on the website, you can see if you bought the bike or not by monitoring the offers area of the website. If you did not Win the deposit will be credited back to your account there. This happens long before the e-mail arrives. They say you are notified by 9:00 PM but it doesn't happen to 9:30 or 10:00 PM on the website and much later by e-mail. This is a problem if you want to bid on other bikes that same night if you loose you offer in step three. This happened to me several times. Step three is the area you have no control of and is a mystery to me. To speak exactly of my experience of why I quit the website.
After bidding on several bikes and making it to step two and step three, I never won the bidding in step three. When I was notified at the end of step three, I would be told the selling price of the bike. I was bidding on 2005 or later Harley FXD models. I was always winning the step two process around the 2600 to 2900 Dollar area. When I was notified after step 3 they would tell the final price the bike sold for usually around 5000 to 6000 dollars in each case that I lost.
Then a 2005 FXD in Denver (nicer than any bike I had bid on earlier and with far lees damage, less than 8,000 miles and it ran and drove)I was bidding on a week earlier I lost the bid of step one by 100 Dollars. We went in to over time on the bidding process in step one but I let it go for 2900 to someone else, my last bid was 2800. Then a few days later the same exact bike shows back up at the same auction and on the Ride safety website. I called and asked why? They told me that the person didn't send their deposit in and it was returned to the sale when that happens. Well this is where it all gets fishy for me for many reasons.
The deposit has to be in by 10:00 AM then you are still bidding against other websites and the live auction until 12:00. So if the deposit wasn't in, the bidding was still going on at other places at the time the Ride Safety didn't receive the deposit from their client.
So if the bikes in the past was selling for 5000 to 6000 dollars you would think at 2900 dollars or higher this would had been no problem to sell to other bidders on other websites and at the live auction and my complaint to Ride Safety was... why didn't I have the chance to put my bid in at my last highest bid at 2800 or at least have a chance to bid at 2900 since they didn't get the deposit from the other guy, they had at least 2 hours to call me? Remember, if you are the high bidder in step one, during step two you are called within seconds of supposedly being out bid.
So in this case they had two hours to call me and say the other didn't send the deposit in. Then the real fishy thing is no one else in the world and from the live auction and other web sites didn't bid for this bike over the 2900?MMMMM.. this is strange to me. I was told that when someone doesn't send the deposit in the bike is then sold at the next auction.
Again, what happened to the people at the live auction and all the other websites..... and also Ride Safely doesn't have control of the bikes in almost all cases, they are owned and sold by other people not by Ride Safely, they can not return them to another auction if they don't own them, also I went to the websites where licensed dealers bid on the same bikes and there was no reserve on this bike, so it should have gone to the highest bidder if it was a real auction...This is where I think it is fishy and seems like price fixing is a question....
I asked for my deposit refund via the website. Since I did my deposit via Pay pal, I had my deposit back into my Pay pal account within 2 hours of my request, not like the other horror stories I have read. I went to the Harley dealer and bought a brand new 2009 FXD and equipped it just like I wanted, over 16,000 when finished. I can't say I was totally pleased that the way things went. I am suspicious of the bidding process. Comparing it to salvage cars the bikes go for over double on the ride safety website of what they should compared to cars..just my opinion...
Also after reading some of the stories about picking up the bikes and the lack of the chance to talk to someone if a problem exists...I didn't like those comments either... So I bailed... I guess a person should make their own mind up to use these people or not.....
BENSALEM, PA -- I was bidding on this 2006 CADILLAC CTS 910021368, on Oct 4, 2009. The auction was to end at 9 PM, with an additional 5 min extension if there were any bids in the last 5 min of the auction. At 9:03 I was the highest bid and at the end of the Auction at 9:05 there were no other bids. The Smartride web site stated the auction had ended and I was the highest bidder.
At 9:11 the auction reopened and there was someone else who bid, I intern was not able to bid and based on the web site info I assumed I had won. I tried to call the company right away but there was no answer. I right away sent them an e-mail. They contacted me the next day verified all the facts and actually said they didn't know why I didn't Win but would look into it. They e-mailed me later that day and said there was a glitch in the system and the auction had reopened on its own. The customer service department also said that the invoice had not gone out yet so they may be able to rectify it.
I waited till the next day and contacted them again they said there was nothing they could do about it as they had contacted the winner already. After speaking to someone at the Fair Business Practice they informed me to contact the company and tell them that the glitch should have affected the individual who bid at 9:11 when the auction was over. As that individual should have known it was over and closed for over 8 minutes before reopening.
One other thing is this is an American company selling a product that is in Canada, so Canadian laws would apply and when an auction is over it is over and can not be reopened unless everyone involved is aware and have equal opportunity to participate. I will be pursuing this as I hate to be ripped off.
LANGHORNE, PENNSYLVANIA -- Ridesafely refused to provide proper documentation requested by the California DMV so that the vehicle that I purchased via the Ridesafely website could be properly registered in California. Ridesafey refused to sign a bill of sale for California. The vehicle was purchased in California but Ridesafely demanded that the title come from Pennsylvania. All of this confusion has made for a very confusing situation at the DMV and Ridesafely has no interest in abiding by the DMV rules but they still have no problem selling vehicles in California and then do not take the steps to help the customer properly register the vehicle.
They want to fight with the DMV and all I want is for them to fill out the proper documentation that the DMV has requested. They refused and want me to go to the DMV and get them on the phone to argue with the DMV. This is unacceptable and unprofessional. Multiple calls and appointments to the DMV and to Ridesafely has not resolved this issue. I expect to purchase a vehicle that can be supported with the proper documentation for resale. They simply refuse to do anything of significance and dumped the mess in my lap to deal with.
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA -- I placed a winning bid with ridesafely.com. The morning after placing the winning bid. I attempted to transfer money via pay pal. I had a problem with my pay pal account and then opened another. At this point in time I attempted to transfer the money. I was told it could take up to 24hrs. for my pay pal account and my online banking account to connect with each other. I called Ridesafely and explained this to them. a customer service representative told me, that because I called. My account would not be terminated. My account was terminated anyway even though they told me, it wouldn't be.
When I contacted Ridesafely, they stated that if I send them $400.00 that they would re activate my account, even though the car I was bidding on was no longer available. I then asked them if they had another Q45 running for me to bid on, and the agent became irate, and stated he didn't have time to answer my questions. I was really trying to purchase this vehicle. For as I was without one
LANGHORNE, PENNSYLVANIA -- Contrary to the first lengthy review, in February 2015, I did NOT go through a "step 2" process where I was asked to increase my bid since I was outbid. In my experience I simply entered the maximum I was willing to pay one time and then the rest was automated. I happened to be the highest bidder on Ridesafely.com, but was outbid on IAAI.com. Ridesafely immediately offered to refund my deposit after I didn't win.
I think the trick is to trust Ridesafely and go ahead and enter the maximum you are willing to pay. Ridesafely makes a fixed amount so they don't have much incentive to screw you, but they do have incentive to Win auctions for less than your max so you keep coming back for more cars. I'm leaving my deposit there and trying again. I will update this review as I go.
Besides the phone calls and small things I don't have much experience with the site. My uncle who has bought over 6 vehicles recommended me to it. He has had OK. experiences with Ridesafely but after reading all these reviews I don't doubt they are terrible and you should NOT deal with them. His purchases took place a while back. Grant it, I am no rocket scientist who does brain surgery as a hobby, but I do have an above average Intelligence Quotient (IQ), and this "auction" makes no sense. I bid on a few vehicles and won, however, I was advised that the insurance didn't approve the sale as my bid was too low.
By definition a "salvage" vehicle is born when (depending on the company) the damages (costs of repairs) exceeds 75% of the vehicle value. The insurance then deems and labels it "salvage" yet I see the "buy now" prices at around $14,000. Mind you the car I am looking into can be purchased non-salvage from a dealer for about $18,000. So, $14,000 for a car that only God knows how much the repairs will cost (keep in mind you cannot fix anything on a car when they are in a wrecked or flooded condition for under $3,000) plus their fees, etc, DO THE MATH!!!
You end up paying about the same or more, plus the risks of it no being in the condition they state, problems registering it and insuring it if they don't send the paperwork PLUS you end up with work to do, and a vehicle that you can't sell for HALF of what they are running in the market at the time (non-salvage). This scam is on a whole other level.
LANGHORN, PA -- Back in March 2001 I bought a BMW 325i 2003 from Ridesafely.Com... After having the car rebuilt (it was a salvage/rebuildable) I went to the Florida dmv "bureau of fields operations" gave them all the paperwork to have it inspected and then realized that Ridesafely is not a dealer license in the state of Florida so they fraudulently and going against the state federal laws sold it to me. So at this point the dmv kept all my paperwork including the title I got from Ridesafely and I cannot get neither a title or not even the inspection done.. The company Ridesafely.Com has not solve this matter and it has been 3 weeks since they got notified from me and the dmv..
This guy under the name of ** supposedly a manager of Ridesafely.Com has been playing me around all along but I will laugh at last when I see him in court.. I've already open a claim through the BBB and another one is on the way to be open through the state of Pennsylvania to them file a lawsuit against Ridesafely.Com and this guy **.. I highly recommend you not to deal with this fraudulent company cause they will cost you a lot of money...
If someone else is going through a problem with this company and want to suit them please get in contact with me so we can do it together.. This company is selling cars without license and is making a lot of money from each car they sell when a broker can do the same thing for a lot less.. Don't be a fool do some research before doing anything through Ridesafely. Com (theftsafely. Com suits them better)
I bid on a Hyundai sonata and got the car the statement from ride safely was that it runs and drives and was verified to do so by the co. The car had to be loaded with a fork lift and rolled off the trailer. It cost me over $3000.00 to get it in the runs and drive condition. At the time of this writing it is not treatable yet. The car was intentionally fixed up to look like it had nothing wrong with it but it had bin wrecked hard. I do not mind that it needed some work but the verified statement that it runs and drives was a fraudulent statement. These people prey on trusting honest people.
A while back there was a topic on this company in which I shared my encounter with ridesafely.com. I entered a bid in their rigged style of auction, at the close of auction I was the high bidder on a wrecked 2005 Chevy truck. To complete my terms of the agreement I need to bank wire them a deposit. The next day I was informed that my bid was not high enough so they would not complete the deal.
I requested a refund and it took them over three week and a dozen phone calls to get my money back. They also kept $ 8.00 for a check fee. Keep in mind I had to pay my bank $ 18.00 to wire the funds. I will never do business with them again. Please feel free to share your experience with this company .
PENNSYLVANIA -- I have now purchased 2 vehicles from Ridesafely and both times I have had the utmost most positive experience anyone can ask for. From the staff to the e sign feature for documents, it truly is made easy. I read all the negative feedback on here and it puzzles me, some people you just can't make happy. But I must say I will be making more purchases in the very near future. I have purchased a 2011 F150 and a 2011 ford flex from them. Both came as described. Not one complaint at all.