ALBANY, NEW YORK -- As Posted on SEVERAL Forums and Chat rooms ALL OVER the Internet:
Newlyweds August 12, 1989.
Buy a used pair of Maytag Washer & Dryer (Copper colored that they stopped making sometime mid '70s).
Had them through three moves and only replaced the Motor one time and had to clean and lube the motor tracks a couple times.
June 14, 2004. Finally had to replace the washer, and based on having a ten year old (or older) Maytag for fifteen years, we decide to buy a new Maytag $365.
June 28, 2006 New Drive Pulley and belt. Two year old PLASTIC Pulley wore out and chewed up the belt. $145.80
March 13, 2007 Broke Brake needs Drive Pulley "KIT" which includes the brake and the Plastic Pulley and Belt ("Sorry can't get just the brake by itself, it only comes in the "KIT") $183.
July 5th 2007 While off on my own little Vaca the wife reports the washer quits again. Get home, Look underneath and sure enough there is a broken piece hanging out of the water pump. How do I know it is the water pump? Am I a trained technician? Well, there are three things hooked to that whazzit, a hose from the tub, a hose to the drain, and a belt around the pulley underneath it, I think it is the water pump.
Call Maytag 1-800-688-9900 and the first couple of minutes of voicemail hell you have to listen to notices about a couple of recalls on their products (this is building my confidence). One hour dance on the phone with Maytag explaining that I do not want to pay another $150 repair and have a three year old machine that I am not confident will keep working three weeks longer. I'd rather go spend $450 and get a new machine with at least 12 months warranty. Maytag says they will warranty the pump but I have to pay $65 service, to which I say OK. I further tell them to make sure their third party contract service provider shows up with the correct water pump for my model, serial number, and revision of machine (they have all the numbers) because I know it is the water pump.
July 7, 2007 3rd party service tech shows up. Looks under the machine, sees part hanging out of whazzit and says "Wow, I have never seen a water pump fall apart like that before. I hope I have a replacement on the truck.” One hour plus on the phone with several other techs and tech support and he decides he can use the pump he has even though it isn't exactly the called for part number. $218.35!!!!
$65 to come out, $70.18 for the part and an hour and a half labor of which one hour plus was the research to see if the water pump he had on the truck could be used on our machine. Maytag did NOT hand off the call with the note that it was definitely the water pump (A&E Service never trusts Maytag or customers diagnosis anyway). Also Maytag DID NOT provide an authorization number for the warranty on the part. Saturday and NOBODY is answering the phone at Maytag, not even if you try to press 1 "if you are in a store and going to buy a Maytag". It is either pay the $218 or he has to take the pump back out. I say take the pump and the washer both and get the hell out. WIFE says "If it is working pay him, I have to do laundry."
July 9th, 2007 I call Maytag and after several runarounds (I will not take NO from someone who does not have the authority to give me a YES) we finally get an approval to credit me for the part but I have to take it up with A&E for the labor. I also have to submit a letter and copy of the bill to get the reimbursement. Next call A&E to see about a credit for the hour and a half labor of which over an hour was the kibutz on whether he could use the part he had. She starts to get a little huffy with me when I finally lower the boom. "This was paid for with an American Express Card, you can either credit all but the $65 or I will protest the full $218.35 and you will get bupkis."
She agrees to credit all but the $65 and the part.
We will see what shows up on next months bill.
Commonly, I don't quote other websites for appliance info. Just today though, there was some discussion about ceramic cooktops and how to clean them.
So I though, Why not share? Hope this helps someone.
Smooth Light Colored
Glass Top Ceramic Cooktop Care
Care Note: Black glass tops are different.
Since heat is created only in the cooking utensil and food, this glass-ceramic surface remains fairly cool. Spills can be wiped up with a wet sponge or paper towel, and will not cook on quickly as in the "smooth-top" type. Abrasives should not be used, as they can scratch the surface.
Turn diamond rings on fingers away from the surface to prevent scratching the top. Be sure utensils have no rough spots to scratch the surface. Be sure the surface is clean before heat is turned on, and bottoms of pans are clean and dry to avoid burning on soil. Avoid spills and boil-overs by turning down heat to the lowest possible setting for the cooking task, and by using large enough pans. Wipe up wet spots promptly, being careful to avoid steam burns. Don't cook with foil on the smooth top - it could be damaged by foil melting into it. Cover pans to prevent spatters.
Pans of soft metal such as aluminum can rub off on the harder glass surface, making gray or black marks. Copper bottom pans rub off less, but do not give as good a cooking performance as aluminum. Heavier weight, harder aluminum marks less than lighter weights. Smooth the bottom of new aluminum pans with a mild abrasive. Do not slide pans across the surface; lift pan up when moving or when shaking as in popping corn. Keep surface protected with cleaner-conditioner. NEVER USE FOIL on glass tops; rubbing it across the surface also makes dark metal marks.
Smooth Glass Top Ceramic Cooktop Cleaning
Note: Black glass tops are different; see instructions for them.
The smooth glassy surface has no crevices for dirt and spills to hide, but it has to be kept clean to avoid soil burning on and staining, as stains show up visibly. Wipe when cool with a clean damp cloth or a clean damp paper towel to remove any spills, soil or spots. Do not use the dishcloth used to wash dishes as it will leave soiled detergent solution on the top, which may show up as brown streaks when heated. A mild detergent solution (such as hand dish-washing liquid in warm water) or baking soda in warm water can be used to clean it; always rinse off all cleaning solution thoroughly and wipe with clean paper towel at the end of the cleaning process.
Special cleaners sold by the manufacturer of the cooktop for just this material should be used periodically. Apply with a clean, damp paper towel, and then wipe with another clean, slightly-dampened paper towel; or follow label instructions on special cleaner, or manual instructions for cooktop. These cleaners leave a protective coating on the surface. They also remove dark marks from aluminum or copper pans or racks slid across the cooktop.
Dark marks from metal rubbing on glass top MUST be removed before they are heated. Heat can permanently cement them into the surface. Other methods of removal are:
1. Copper marks - rub with a plastic or other non-abrasive scrubber and a mildly abrasive cleanser such as Bar Keepers Friend or Delete.
2. Aluminum - place two paper towels soaked with diluted chlorine bleach (1 part bleach to 4 parts water) on top of mark for about one hour. Clean with a non-abrasive cleanser. After using a mild cleanser, re-coat glass top with a sparing application of Cleaner Conditioner. Remove excess conditioner with a clean, damp paper towel. Polish dry before heating the surface.
Yesterday I replaced my 6 year old Maytag washing machine after the serviceman charged me $132 (for a 10-minute visit) and told me it would cost another $400 to fix it! (My last Maytag lasted 25 years with no repairs and was still running when I gave it away.) I did some research on washing machines and found that Maytag's ratings were not very high. (Their front-loaders were rated dead last.) When I went to an appliance store to look at machines, the salesman told me that his Maytag had only lasted 4 years and that he did not recommend Maytag to any of his customers. He said "Maytag ain't what Maytag used to be". I also found that some of the big chain stores are getting away from Maytag. (Maytag's parts warranty has also gone from 5/10 years to one year--I guess that should tell us something.) I find it perplexing that a company could make washing machines 50 years ago that would last 25-30 years, but now can't make one that will last 10 years! Damn Maytag. I am telling everyone I know to avoid their junk.
NEWTON, IOWA -- I worked at Maytag for thirty years and am now retired. It saddens me very much to see all the post on here about our products,although some of it is the truth. When I started Maytag at 18 years old in 1967 it was a proud company and the main thing was quality. Starting in the mid 80`s we the factory workers could see that quality was slowly being tossed out the door. No matter what we tried to do the bottom line was profit and quantity. As Maytag bought more and more companies numbers going out the door were the important thing. We the laborers at Maytag's plant in Iowa are sad to see what has happened to the company and to you the consumer. Contrary to what the media would have you believe we have been taking cuts in our wages since back in the 80`s to try to get our wages even with other facilities that Maytag owns but it was never enough for the bean counters that run the place now.
Our own retirement is in jeopardy now as is our health benefits. We don't want pity just justice. All we can ask is that when you complain about the products is that you try and make sure where they were made. We produced the old reliable washers here,dishwashers until the late 80`s, still make commercial dryers here and started the Neptune washer here. I happened to be part of the original 12 people that started producing the Neptune. And you people are correct about the smell,and breakdowns. We tried to tell the engineers about the problems but were dismissed as uneducated. And getting them out to the consumer was the biggest thing on their agenda. So where the blame lays is with the management at that time and the current. We still make the BEST washing machine on the market. It is the Dependable Care model WITH the porcelain tub. (not to be confused with the Dependable Care with a plastic tub) The one with the plastic tub is made in Searcy AK and does not have the quality of the one made with a porcelain tub.
The company has slowly been killing the one with the porcelain tub. Why?? Because the profit margin isn't as high and they last forever. You will find very few dealers across the United States that even know that we still produce these machines. We used to make almost 4000 a day, now we make 75 a day and only special stores are allowed to sell them. This is a perfect example of corporate greed and misleading the public.
KAILUA-KONA, HAWAII -- I baked an apple pie. To keep the oven clean, I put down foil. The smallest piece of apple caused flames and my home to fill with smoke. Then they get you!!! You can't use the oven again until you clean it at 350 degrees for 3 hours. That's frightening, ,because to clean, it HAS to preheat to 350 degrees again, and I'm afraid that it will start to burn again..........and burn my home down. Sincerely, Juliette M. Guard
CLEARWATER, FLORIDA -- Purchased Maytag bravos 5 years ago. Washer does a very poor job of cleaning and ties clothes in knots, and have problems with bleach leaching into the next load.
Though the dryer works OK, sometimes even with the sensors, it doesn't dry jeans well if mixed with other clothes and the unit has rust on the outside already. My last washer and dryer never had rust and I had them 18 years.
EL PASO, TEXAS -- Please stay away from Maytag. They will cheat you out of a rebate of all means necessary. First, they claimed that I didn't submit the receipt even though I included the email with the order number and the delivery receipt. Second, I faxed the email with the order number again and they claimed that they didn't receive it and denied the rebate. Once again, beware of this company's tactics involving rebates.